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Standing International Magazine - Home > La Rotonde, more than just a brasserie

La Rotonde, more than just a brasserie

La Rotonde, more than just a brasserie -- Standing International Magazine

June 2023 By Jérôme Lamy, In Paris

This famous address in Montparnasse is one of the last true Parisian brasseries. The talented Tafanel brothers are the guardians of this temple.

The Rotunda 2022
La Rotonde is not just a brasserie. It is a story and a spirit. The story, rather the chapter of stories, is that of a city, Paris and a district, Montparnasse, born at the corner of Boulevard Montparnasse and Boulevard Raspail, at the very place where La Rotonde has been entertaining anonymous people and celebrities since 1911. In reference to Greek mythology, an artificial hill was called Mont Parnasse before a famous Auvergne Victor Libion baptized a popular estaminet La Rotonde.

The anisette and the snacks were put to one side. The generous and affable Libion knew where he was going. He subscribed to the press around the world and willingly gave credit to the artists who populated the neighborhood. La Rotunde became a brasserie frequented by rich tourists and artists who were broke. It was a winning bet. The writers Cocteau, Fitzgerald, Aragon, Apollinaire and the painters Modigliani, Picasso and Chagall gave the institution an international reputation that it has never lost.

By celebrating his victory in the first round of the French presidential election in 2017, at La Rotonde, Emmanuel Macron opened a new page of history. Especially since the President of the Republic has become a discreet and regular client. He has his table, his habits and a weakness for seafood. "When I'm here, I'm happy" he confided to us during one of his last visits.

The current patrons, the brothers, Serge and Gérard, work in harmony amongst all this. They have been here for 30 years, noon and evening. An everyday occurrence. They still adhere to a code of Goodwill. The code that came from their Uncle George. Serge has a deadpan sense of humour. Gérard carries a contagious bonhomie… and his sulking. They are inseparable and indispensable. There is no pressure. They love people, famous or not. They welcome them as real innkeepers of Raulhac, where they were born. In this historic village, set on the foothills of the Cantal volcanoes, they are as famous as Mayor Philippe Matière.

 

Forcément, les frères Tafanel sont dépositaires de l’esprit de La Rotonde. « Nous recevons des amis qui paient » dit joliment Gérérad Tafanel à la tête d’une des dernières brasseries parisiennes au sens noble du terme, à la frontière du bistro et du gastro. En bons gardiens du temple, ils ont n’ont jamais rompu avec le charme suranné d’un décor populaire et chic chaleureux avec ses banquettes en velours rouge, ses boiseries et ses lampes Art Déco.

They have never laxed in the quality of service and cuisine where chef Franck Gonnet has been displaying his talent since November 1, 2000. Second in Manuel Martinez’s La Tour d'Argent and Chief Executive of Fouquet’s, Franck Gonnet is on the front line at La Rotonde. «His loyalty is unique » says Gérard Tafanel. « He is rigorous and demanding with his team and with suppliers.»

The meat and especially the Lozère leg of lamb has been selected by Hugo Desnoyer, butcher to the stars. The poached turbot steak, hollandaise sauce, next to the Corsican bass fillet with candied lemon and wild rice are the signature dishes. Finally, the minute millefeuille prepared with vanilla from Madagascar draws a consensus: it is crunchy like morning frost and dazzling like the evening lights.

It is impossible to come to Paris without visiting La Rotonde, a beacon of excellence for the art of living, French style.